[비즈한국] What comes to mind when you hear 'Wanju'? Not the 'wanju' (finishing a race) from running, but Wanju-gun located in Jeonbuk State. Perhaps those who enjoy mountains might think of Daedunsan, and those who visit temples might think of Songgwangsa, famous for its beautiful cherry blossom road. Or maybe the local specialty, strawberries? Perhaps because the famous tourist city of Jeonju is nearby, Wanju's presence as a travel destination had been faint. At least, that was the case until 2019.
The start of Wanju's sudden rise as a travel destination is BTS. In 2019, BTS visited Awon Gotaek in Wanju to film their 'Summer Package' and visited various quiet spots in Wanju throughout their stay. Needless to say, 'ARMY' from all over the country—no, all over the world—have since counted Wanju as a 'BTS healing pilgrimage site'. And it wasn't just the fans. The fact that BTS visited a place with so little presence piqued the curiosity of the general public as well. And now, the currently trending drama '21st Century Grand Princess' has also chosen Awon Gotaek and Soyang Gotaek as the private residence of Grand Prince Ian (Byeon Woo-seok). Just how charming of a place is Wanju to have been chosen by both BTS and (in the drama) a Grand Prince?
Awon
Meaning 'a garden for all of us' by combining 'A' (our) and 'Won' (garden), this place boasts a unique atmosphere where traditional hanok and a modern architectural museum coexist. Even the entrance is special. Stepping through a narrow and long entryway that feels like crossing into another world, you arrive at the ticketing area featuring media art. You then proceed through a meditative gallery where the atmosphere shifts moment by moment through light, eventually entering the old house. If you visit yourself, you will empathize with the feelings of commoner Seong Hee-ju (IU) when she first visited the Grand Prince's residence in the drama. Perhaps that is why the drama frequently features the entrance to Awon.
Passing through the gallery and climbing the narrow stairs leads you to Awon Gotaek. It was created by relocating a 250-year-old house from Jinju, Gyeongnam, a 150-year-old house from Jeongeup, Jeonbuk, and a study from Hampyeong, Jeonnam. It consists of Manhyudang, a guest house (Yeonhadang), a main house (Seolhwadang), a study, and two minimalist exposed concrete annexes. As mentioned earlier, the Grand Prince's residence is a blend of Awon Gotaek and the nearby Soyang Gotaek, and the spot in Awon frequently captured in the drama is Manhyudang. Do you remember the place where Grand Prince Ian was reading a book with a noble posture and practicing orchids in episode 1? It is also the background where Seong Hee-ju, Prime Minister Min Jeong-woo (Noh Sang-hyun), and the servants of the residence played tewho (pitch-pot) with the young King Lee Yoon (Kim Eun-ho) in episode 4.
Sitting on the spacious wooden floor (daecheong) and looking at the picturesque scenery of Jongnamsan Mountain across, you realize why this place is called Manhyudang, meaning 'a place to put aside all matters and find rest.' It would be great to drink tea with a graceful posture like Grand Prince Ian, or return to childhood innocence like the young king who played happily when tired of official duties.
Awon offers excellent 'borrowed scenery' (cha-gyeong) that changes with the seasons, making it a highly satisfying place regardless of who you visit with. Simple and neat breakfasts featuring local Wanju food like warm scorched rice (nurungji), boiled eggs, and seasonal side dishes, along with tea ceremonies and walks in the bamboo forest behind the house, all add to the satisfaction. To fully enjoy the atmosphere of Awon, I recommend staying at Yeonhadang or Seolhwadang. Since they are located at a higher elevation than Manhyudang, you can view both Jongnamsan Mountain and Manhyudang in a single frame. Personally, I have visited Awon Gotaek three times—in the summer of 2021, the autumn of 2025, and this spring—and my most satisfying stay was at Yeonhadang in the summer. The time spent sitting on the pavilion (numaru) sipping a drink while watching the quiet night view remains vivid.
You can enjoy Awon Gotaek even without an overnight stay. You can visit the Awon Gallery from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Awon Gotaek is also open for public viewing from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. (Admission 10,000 KRW for Awon Gallery & Awon Gotaek, beverages extra). Please note that Awon is a 'no-kids zone' where children under 8 are not permitted for both visits and stays. Also, since there are no TVs or refrigerators in the rooms, it is recommended for those who wish to meditate and rest in harmony with nature.
Soyang Gotaek
Soyang Gotaek, which also appears as Grand Prince Ian's residence, is located near Awon. It is a hanok stay created by relocating three 180-year-old houses from Gochang and Muan. Beyond lodging, it serves as a complex cultural space hosting various cultural events such as jazz performances, art fairs, and book concerts. The Wanju Media Art Festa and the local night tourism festival 'Starlight Tavern: Soyang Branch' have already been held here, with reports of high satisfaction from visitors. If Awon Gotaek has a quiet atmosphere with a cool view, Soyang Gotaek stands out for its more charming and elegant beauty, nestled deeply in nature with delicate landscaping throughout.
Soyang Gotaek often appears as the outdoor space within the residence, such as the scene where Seong Hee-ju receives bridal training with a bowl on her shoulder, or the scene where she changes clothes and walks out before going to a baseball stadium. Walking along the stepping stones neatly arranged on the well-groomed lawn, you might even feel like a Grand Prince or Princess! However, you cannot enjoy the interior without staying overnight. To fully enjoy the drama's sentiment, I recommend staying at Yeoillu, Jewoldang, or Hyeondang. Yeoillu, in particular, offers a relaxing spa therapy in a cypress bathtub. Note that if you are planning to stay with infants or toddlers, only Gahuidang can be reserved.
Even if you don't plan to stay, you can soothe your disappointment by visiting the affiliated Dube Cafe or the independent bookstore, Flicker Books. Dube Cafe, which also serves as the breakfast space for guests, is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. It is a popular photo spot as the entire cafe blends artistic objects and natural scenery, including an outdoor terrace overlooking the old house beyond the low fence, and a waterway and stepping stones in the front yard. Flicker Books, which also acts as the check-in space for Soyang Gotaek, is the first independent bookstore in Wanju and can be experienced with a prior reservation (paid) even if you are not a guest. There is nothing better than this to quietly enjoy books and tea while feeling the emptiness of the hanok.
Recommended Places to Visit Together
'Oseongje', a reservoir located on the way from the entrance of Oseong Hanok Village to Wibong Falls. It is a must-visit spot for ARMY on their 'BTS Mobile Stamp Tour', and taking a photo by the lone pine tree standing on the dike is essential. 'Os Gallery', stylishly situated next to Oseongje, is a gallery and cafe run by the head of Awon. It features unique architectural beauty, from its villa-like exterior to the interior view of the terraced garden through glass walls. 'Wibongsanseong Fortress', a valley-style fortress built during the reign of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty, is also a place included in the BTS Summer Package. It is worth exploring the Wibongsa Temple and Wibong Falls inside the fortress together.
If you are staying at Awon or Soyang Gotaek, many visitors choose the nearby restaurant 'Giyangcho' for dinner. It offers a variety of healthy foods with chives as the main ingredient, including stone pot rice with conch and chives. If you are with children, I also recommend the 'Samnye Culture and Art Village' located in Samnye-eup, Wanju-gun. It is a place that has been reborn as a local cultural and artistic regeneration space by transforming grain warehouses from the colonial era. It hosts art exhibitions, performing arts, cultural experiences, and educational programs. Recently, the second exhibition hall, which finished remodeling, opened as a new immersive media art hall.